Surfing at the 'secret spot' for the second time this year, it was a fun swell day. It was a freak Nor'easter and is quite unusual this time of the year. I arrived in the afternoon with my friend, Koji Otsuka (www.kojiotsuka.com) and I saw solid overhead waves. The paddling out was alright, just a bitch when it was my first time out in a long time. Got spanked and battered and caught a few waves and got ice cream headaches and general beat down. I felt that I was totally out of shape, because I did no surfing this past winter. Why? I don't know.
The following morning, I was out with DJ Busquelo. It was more mellow but with the same east swell. It was a good time for sure. Feels like I'll be back at the beach sooner than later.
If I am out of the water long enough, I start to wonder about surfing. Don't get me wrong, I just want to wake up and walk to the beach and go surfing.. not commuting. My dream is to live where there is surf and I can walk to it and live the dream. I will, for sure! Already dreaming it, it gots to be close!
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