Day 15 june 3 2008 was a cloudy day. We were all expecting a big tuesday.
From my point of view, the living room window at casa ala Yamada, I could see a rather clean line of waves breaking on inamura. But from the distance, I could not really judge the height nor the speed of the waves. I am not a good surfer, I just really like it. It wasn't until 11 am when I stood in front of the wave I could see that it was not as small as I thought. It wasn't until I was paddling out and diving the waves, I felt a little bit of concern. I caught two that day. I was flying! Kinda reminded me of autumn waves. Typhoons were no joke, it was time to get excited. Jonas and I started to create a glass piece collaboration. Later, it was out to dinner with Kaku Clan and Naomi Crew. We swarmed on Big Sur in Kamakura to eat that killer curry. Survivor Curry. Powerful Burly Curry. One of the best in the region! But Big Sur? It is the Dope Curry spot owned and run for over twenty years by a Big Sur Ricocheting 400 Feet Drop Car Ejected Survivor. A straight up Master. It was decided in eating our prepared as you order in the eight to ten maximum customer diner eatery that we, naomi, matsu of Shonan Jeweler and me would go out and get wet at 5 am. Went home and talked to Yukie Mori about the exciting day's events and passed out on a heated living room floor like a dog.
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