'midtide wind shifting backwash blues.' As we sat out on a beautiful tuesday morning, chilly, a bit like a warm autumn day, sittin off the jetty waiting for the sets. a few lumpy, some dumpy, staring out and out,
willing
coaxing
begging
and
hoping
another sideshore wave.
perfect in the day's imperfections.
perfect in the way every person is perfect.
magic of the surf is really
all
in
the
mind.
